Matte Varnish

[nidnewbie]

I have a bid in on some finecast models that are painted and sealed with a matte varnish. As good as the paint job may be, I want them to match my growing hive fleet. Other than tossing out any finecast models immediately, what does the hive recommend? Should I simply prime over the varnish and paint or do I need to strip the models? If I need to strip, are there any special considerations given they are resin models?

Cheers!

[hivefleetkerrigan]

Which models? If it's gaunts and the paint job isn't too thick, then I'd say prime over them. If they're center piece models, then I'd recommend stripping, as it will get you a better looking finish.

[yoritomo]

I recommend you just send all the finecast models to me. I know it's a sacrifice, but it's one I'm willing to make for you.


All joking aside, have a look at the models first. If the previous painter was decent then you're probably alright just painting over it. So long as the paint isn't applied to thick and the details are not obscured then you can repaint them two or three times without issue. So long as they don't look like Veteran Trooper Smik you'll be fine.*

Though you are going to want a paint scheme that uses paints with high opacity (usually dark colors) so you don't have to apply too many layers. If you are trying to paint a light scheme over a dark one then you may have no choice but to strip the models.



* Veteran Trooper Smik reference for those of you who don't understand:
www.tsoalr.com/comics/2003-10-27-017_Smik.gif

[nidnewbie]

The models are the old hive guard. I am new to 40k, but prefer these older models. I use contrast paint for my hive fleet, primarily nazdreg yellow and flesh tearers red, so I would probably prime the models prior to repainting them.

Thanks for the feedback!

[yoritomo]

Contrast paints? Yeah, there is no opacity to those paints. Still, if you watch your primer you should be fine.


Be sure to inspect your hive guard when you get them. If the previous owner didn’t apply the paint with a mop or put seven coats of varnish on it you should be fine. You’re definitely going to need primer if you’re using contrast paints. You’ve already got several layers of paint and varnish on the model, so try and go as easy on the primer as you can.

[nidnewbie]

If I do end up needing to strip the models do I just dump them in a bowl of Simply Green? Being resin models I assume the glue will disolve and I will need to reassmble them. Should I rinse them with something special after soaking them?

As I grow into the hobby, I hope to advance my painting game which is currently my least favorite aspect. Contrast paints are helping me get an army onto the table more quickly to play.

Thanks again!

[yoritomo]

There’s nothing wrong with contrast paints. They are a tool just like any other paint or brush. So long as you understand their capabilities and limitations they are a fine product. If you use them as some sort magic painting bullet, well let’s just say you’ll be disappointed.

As far as stripping paint goes Simple Green is your best bet. Try and get the concentrated stuff if you can. Finecast is a finicky material. It’s been known to react differently than other resins and plastics. I wouldn’t try anything stronger than Simple Green on it. And even then I’d do them one at a time to make sure your concentration isn’t too strong. 24 hours in the Simple Green should be enough, though you will probably need a toothbrush to scrub the paint off the model.

[garg]

If you think you will be stripping a lot of models it could be interesting to buy an ultra sonic bath.
I can't get simply green where i live so i had to try some cleaning alcohol. The one i use started to soften resin after bit too long but if simply green is less reactive that should be fine