Post by lowlygaunt on Nov 9, 2007 23:17:53 GMT
There was some interest, so I decided to share my set of desert boards. As usual they are made using the same process in the tutorial on the web page. The surface for these is spackle, a spray coat of Fleckstone, and a very water brown wash. most of these include built in terrain. I have a picture of one board with about half of our movable terrain on it as well.
Here they are, first a shot of the garage where it all happens:
We call this board the "badlands", lots of ridges that block LoS. We count most of these ridges as impassable, and the "mesas" are not climable, thus only jump troops and such can reach it.
This one we call Beau Geste (go read the book), for the french foreign legion style fort. The big hill on it has been nicknamed "Custer's' hill. The first time we used this board it became one of the 5 objectives on the table, and the ork player decided he would hold it at all costs. . it cost him "all" and the bodies were piled 3 deep. . .
This is the fossil board, for obvious reasons. Got those skeletons cheap, less than 3$ each online.
Left this board empty. Having open boards obviousely gives more variety in placing movable terrain upon it. My first set of jungle boards I put terrain built into all of them, learned my lesson so always keep a few "open" boards.
This is the well of lost souls (LOTS of people have died fighting over it as an objective), sadly the water effect got damaged in the heat when I forgot it outside this summer. most water effect stuff can be tricky to use, and often it will become tacky again when it gets warm.
And finaly a shot of some of our movable terrain. That is about 1/3 of my spiky plant forest stuff, and most of the "cactus" shrub mesquite style forest stuff. We have lots of rock outcropping. Not shown is our bamboo skewer fort, think fort apache from the wild west. I also have an ork village made of half cocoanuts. I base most of my "movable" terrain on plasti-card or peg-board, as you can see for any forest/jungle/etc, I make my sets in irregular curves of 4-5 inches. This lets us place it down to represent the outside edges of the terrain, leaving plenty of room to move units thru it, that is why they seem to create irregular "circles" in this picture.
Okies hope some of you get some ideas from it at least, and i haven't just created a pain in the butt thread because of all the pictures.
EDIT; here are 3 pictures of the table ready for a battle:
[ftp]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s79/trolls28/desert10.jpg[/ftp]
Here they are, first a shot of the garage where it all happens:
We call this board the "badlands", lots of ridges that block LoS. We count most of these ridges as impassable, and the "mesas" are not climable, thus only jump troops and such can reach it.
This one we call Beau Geste (go read the book), for the french foreign legion style fort. The big hill on it has been nicknamed "Custer's' hill. The first time we used this board it became one of the 5 objectives on the table, and the ork player decided he would hold it at all costs. . it cost him "all" and the bodies were piled 3 deep. . .
This is the fossil board, for obvious reasons. Got those skeletons cheap, less than 3$ each online.
Left this board empty. Having open boards obviousely gives more variety in placing movable terrain upon it. My first set of jungle boards I put terrain built into all of them, learned my lesson so always keep a few "open" boards.
This is the well of lost souls (LOTS of people have died fighting over it as an objective), sadly the water effect got damaged in the heat when I forgot it outside this summer. most water effect stuff can be tricky to use, and often it will become tacky again when it gets warm.
And finaly a shot of some of our movable terrain. That is about 1/3 of my spiky plant forest stuff, and most of the "cactus" shrub mesquite style forest stuff. We have lots of rock outcropping. Not shown is our bamboo skewer fort, think fort apache from the wild west. I also have an ork village made of half cocoanuts. I base most of my "movable" terrain on plasti-card or peg-board, as you can see for any forest/jungle/etc, I make my sets in irregular curves of 4-5 inches. This lets us place it down to represent the outside edges of the terrain, leaving plenty of room to move units thru it, that is why they seem to create irregular "circles" in this picture.
Okies hope some of you get some ideas from it at least, and i haven't just created a pain in the butt thread because of all the pictures.
EDIT; here are 3 pictures of the table ready for a battle:
[ftp]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s79/trolls28/desert10.jpg[/ftp]
