Liquid Greenstuff Help?

[rpricew]

I've been toting around a bottle of Games Workshop's Liquid Greenstuff, that I purchased to fill gaps in models. I've been hesitant to try it and wanted to get some tips and tricks as the new release of models (just picked up 3 Deathstorm kits, 2 Tyrannocytes, 2 Exocrine, 2 Toxicrenes... I'd like to make sure that the gaps are filled on these new models.

Also, I'm going back to repaint models from my Hive Fleet, and the Trygons/Mawlocs/Hive Tyrants have plenty of places that this would help.

Please offer up any tips, tricks, tutorials or experience that could help out a fellow hive member.

Thanks in Advance!!!

Price

[gigasnail]

i'm not really a fan of it. it's generally more hassle than it's worth. you *can* use it for a gap filler, if you're very patient and use it in layers...or you could just use GS normally and do it in one go. i did find this lady's videos helpful:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRHG5lj4Sno

be warned! i'm not sure if she smokes cigarettes regularly, or eats them.

contrasting opinion:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK97CLGFwY4

[elzanith]

Hate to say it but Liquid green stuff has a horrible shelf life..... And honestly it doesn't get into the cracks so well as it tends to flake off or clump all over.

[Kyokii]

I use superglue and baking soda/baby powder instead.
You can control it easily, it sets quickly, and excess can be filed off.
Look it up on youtube if curious. mainly gundam modellers use it.

[xtztxtxz]

My only advice is to use it quickly. My pot lasted about 2 months from opening before it was a solid lump. Won't be buying anymore.

[darthplagis]

Just keep topping it upnwith warm water and a shake/stir every once and a while.

Ive had a pot since release, its great for flattening large areas from file marks and/or greenstuff finger prints.

Its ok as a small gap filler, like gant heads etc but anything bigger use proper putty (GS, vallejo putty, milliput, CA glue and talc)

[Freeman]

I use it for tidying small gaps ( like the ones that are barely there anyway and smoothing out my dodgy green stuff work.

[krede]

I am not a fan of liquid green stuff either, I find it useless for its intended purpose as, mentioned above, it has far too shot of a shelf life. I tend to use regular green stuff to fill in gaps... if that s not your thing, there are a lot of fillers available from other manufacturers that are far superior to lgs

[eskimo]

Two pots of that (please do not swear), straight in the bin. As said, glue or greenstuff. Vallejo filler paste is good too. Cheap, in a large tube, easy to work with. GW paints are just terrible in general, except the washes.

[BattleMetalChris]

I like it. Putting it on with a brush is far, far easier (I find) than having to mix and roll out the putty green-stuff.

[Hivefleet Oblivion]

I had two pots that died, and that was enough.

Now for small gaps I use Vallego model putty - a small tube with a long thin nozzle, so it's easier to apply in the right place.

[impervious]

I don't mean to resurrect a dead thread, but has anyone changed their views on this stuff? I bought some when I started my Tyranid army (it has been years since I last built an army, well before LGS came out), and I actually like the stuff.

I had to thin it out with a little bit of water initially. I've found that it dries to about 2/3 the size I apply it, and it has been working great for me in light coats to blend different parts of the model together, and it can be shaped fairly easily with a brush. I have generally needed 3 coats to get it to where I want it to be, but because of how quick the stuff is to apply to a model, I feel there are a lot of things you can do with this stuff that would end up using less time than traditional green stuff. All it takes is giving it a couple of minutes to start to harden, then going over it with a damp brush to smooth it out, while retaining the shape. You can also apply a fair bit of water to thin it out completely once it is on the model, and then pick it up off the model in places you don't want excess by using your brush. I actually wish this stuff existed when I previously built armies.....

It is definitely not a replacement for regular green stuff (which I do use as well), but I have found some uses for LGS. Another thing is that if you apply it roughly, kinda like dabbing onto the model, it adds an interesting texture to it. I can see that being useful for certain armies, like aanything Nurgle or something undead, for instance.

[gigasnail]

if you're using 3 coats of this stuff to achieve a simple gap fill/blend, you're not saving any time vs. using regular greenstuff.

the texture thing is legit though.

[jimmyp]

It is messy and is effective BUT I know what you mean by the gaps...I basically use a simple effective technique that doesn't involve filling the gap after assembly. Question is to ask yourself? Why is the gap so big..flash or bent or bowed...so dry fit stuff and play around. Obviously big gaps do occur, carnifex I'm looking at you lol!

When assembling use a decent plastic glue and if it has a in your face mould line then using a extra amount so it sticks out a bit, but not to much " you can always wipe it with your finger quickly if that happens"

Once dried then this is the magic part using a brushed plastic glue put a nice thin layer over the join, it will melt and effectively get rid of any evidence of it being two parts. You can repeat this process if necessary...
Humbrol liquid poly is awesome stuff be sure to get the non blue label version thou, make sure the label is yellow. They took out the strong curing agent and replaced it with some kid friendly low smell stuff.

[jimmyp]

Oh yeah I decent plastic glue for small parts, painted parts and just to be neat is Contacta professional by Revell. Has a great metal tube and if blocked later use a lighter to melt gently the old glue.