Painting before you attach with glue

[blackrainbow]

Will plastic glue "eat" through a layer of primer and secure properly? Or what about primer+layer of paint, or two layers, or, can I paint my whole fancy head/weapon/leg/etc to completion and still have no problem attaching it with plastic glue? Should I try this with super glue?

Currently I have many attachments either in alligator clamps or I drill small holes in them and put them on tooth picks. I then prime and base layer, but leave a small pocket clear on both body and attachment. Prime and paint over that when ready, then continue from there. Is that too much? Can I cover the whole arm/whatever with a few layers then glue it in the dynamic pose I want, that prohibits easy access to certain angles for the finishing touches?

Thank you Hive.

[almostmercury]

Any assembly that you do prior to painting I recommend using plastic cement, assuming you're using plastic models of course. After you've painted, you should be using super glue.

[blackrainbow]

Thanks, just wanted to make sure the connection would still be secure.

[almostmercury]

I'm saying to use super glue, not plastic cement.

[blackrainbow]

Yup, got that.

[tripwire]

I can speak from experience here: testor's model masters plastic glue, and revell contacta pro plastic glue with BOTH eat thru paint and make a seal. I often paint limbs and other bits on models separately, and then plastic glue them together.

-trip

[blackrainbow]

Jan 31, 2016 3:56:46 GMT tripwire said:

I can speak from experience here: testor's model masters plastic glue, and revell contacta pro plastic glue with BOTH eat thru paint and make a seal. I often paint limbs and other bits on models separately, and then plastic glue them together.

-trip

Trip, my hero. I had planned on trying the super-glue on top of the paint, which almostmercury had reinforced. But that seemed like the glue would just be "skicking/bonding" the layers of paint to the other layers, and not actually chemically bonding/melting the plastics into one. Thank you for the experience input.

Thank you both for your input.

[tripwire]

Jan 31, 2016 5:00:00 GMT blackrainbow said:

This is precisely what happened to my trygon/mawlock.

-trip

[glitchrr36]

I wasn't using model primer at the time, but if you do use testors through primer try to give it a coat then wait for roughly an hour before giving it another coat of glue to stick them. They don't bond well before then.

[blackrainbow]

Feb 1, 2016 4:05:49 GMT glitchrr36 said:

I wasn't using model primer at the time, but if you do use testors through primer try to give it a coat then wait for roughly an hour before giving it another coat of glue to stick them. They don't bond well before then.

Something to consider, thanks. So you're saying put a little bit of testors on and wait an hour for it to eat through, then apply more for the actual seal?

[glitchrr36]

Feb 4, 2016 1:47:55 GMT blackrainbow said:

Feb 1, 2016 4:05:49 GMT glitchrr36 said:

I wasn't using model primer at the time, but if you do use testors through primer try to give it a coat then wait for roughly an hour before giving it another coat of glue to stick them. They don't bond well before then.

Something to consider, thanks. So you're saying put a little bit of testors on and wait an hour for it to eat through, then apply more for the actual seal?

exactly. Was an utter (please do not swear) to think "oh thank god this arm finally attached" on a trygon (my first model) and then notice It had fallen off for the eighth time as I was gluing another thing on.

[topknot87]

Since no one else brought it up, I'll add my own two cents. Instead of crossing my fingers and hoping the adhesive will stick through the paint I always just rough up the surfaces where glue is going. Either with a hobby knife or small file I just scratch off the paint till I get to the plastic surface.

I've had numerous models where I assumed it would be fine to glue paint to paint and with enough (accidental) force the piece came off. Glue held great, but it ripped a layer of paint with it.

[BattleMetalChris]

I just put a couple of scratches in the surfaces with a knife if I'm gluing painted plastic together.

[cypheon]

I've apparently had very different luck with testors plastic glue... for me it ate through the paints, spread out like oil, ate more paint, and would not seal at all. I had to strip models and repaint from 0 whenever trying to use plastic glue on any painted pieces.

So now i use superglue and slight pinning when painting before full assembly.

[blackrainbow]

I'll advocate scoring the separate bits if they are either different plastics (soft vs hard), hard on hard plastic, or plastic and pewter. Always score little bits with my knife for pewter, I can't see files or sandpaper doing much but the opposite of what you want, that is making it too smooth.

I've noted which of my glues spread out like that, notably the green Fill-a-Gap super glue and surprisingly a little bit of Locktight super glue gel. I still have not tried Testor, but the Fill-a-Gap is fine as I expect it now and use it for mostly porous things like cut-up cork for rocks and scenery, and the Locktight is fine as it is generally so small that it's only noticeable prior to a layer or two of primer/paint. I think noticing which glues work on what and how, is part of learning the hobby. Sort of why I wanted this thread, to give a place for how stuff works to compile.

Pinning for any large bit that looks like it might, regardless of glue type, is always good IMO.