Quick question regarding magnets

[Inquisitor Stingray]

Hello Hive,

So I am currently in the process of magnetizing my Carnifex and it feels goood. My sincere thanks to you all for providing me with valuable advice on the topic. Was going to start out with the Haruspex, but figured I'd better start out small. Anyway, at this point I have magnetizing the left side of the torso with reasonble success, butterfingers considered. When magnetizing the other side of the model, does it make a difference if the magnets interfere, polar-wise? Should I keep at it with the same distribution in poles or reverse them to avoid the glued-together torso having the magnets push away from each other?

Possibl, or rather probably a really stupid question. But I'm taking baby steps here and prefer to be on the safe. Also, is GW plastic (not finecast) toxic? Obviously you shouldn't go sniffing it, but does the dust particles releases when drilling provide a significant hazard? Thanks a lot.

[coredump]

The magnetic repulsion on a fex will be so minimal I can't imagine it having any impact.

I wanted them to all have the same polarity facing 'out' in case I ever had a reason to swap weapons. (hard left to right, but whatever...)

I have never done it, and may never do it; so using different polarity should not be a problem in any case. I *would* advise that all of the models you magnetize have the same right side polarity, and have the same left side polarity. That way you can switch weapons between models.

I have not seen an MSDS sheet... but I would bet money they plastic isn't toxic at all.

[Hivefleet Oblivion]

Bear in mind that you will need watch the polarity if you ever magnetise warriors, as their bodies are so small. (we used three 3mm magnets, which go right through the upper torso - If you had north poles on both arms, the body is so small they'd repel each other)

For that reason, we used + on one side, - on the other for all our models.

It's not crucial - warrior weapons are smaller than the big boys/girls, so you'll probably never need to swap from one to the other. If you follow this method, though, pairs of weapons will stick to each other, which makes keeping track of them easier.

[Inquisitor Stingray]

A great many thanks to your both. The Warrior scenario Oblivion describes is what I feared might happen with the Carnifex. On the other hand, being able to switch left and right arms (while strange looking) sounded kind of cool as well. I suppose the only really important thing on bigger monsters is to maintain the same polarization on the same side. Thanks.

[drakiskier]

the best advice i can give.... for carnifex arms, replace the ball of the arm with a steel ball bearing, and put a thin layer of greenstuff over it to smooth it.

for warrior and gaunt arms, use nail heads drilled into the arms..

that way polarity doesnt matter in either scenario...

[Inquisitor Stingray]

That's brilliant! Not sure I feel confident enough in my converting/modelling skills to do that, but I'll probably experient a bit on a few spare ones!

[citadel]

Inq Stingray - I would magnetize everything "body side" and "limb side" (right side/left side polarity) across all models that you do, including models from other factions. I magnetized a friend's CentDev squad the other day in the same polarity of mine, then stuck some Crushing Claws on it. I swear to god, it's now an infested space marine. So cool.

Up to this point, I have done 1 Haru/Exo, 1 Crone/Harp, 2 Flyrant, 1 Walkrant/SLord, 4 Carni, 3 Rav, OOE, RTerror, and 9 OOP Warriors. Text cannot adequately explain how awesome it is to be able to stick different guns, claws, whatever else on different locations. It really opens up the aesthetic capabilities. Also, if you magnetize the "body" to the "torso", you can flip it around and give your model the potential to stand up taller than the others, creating cool poses and such whereas you would have none before.

I made a video of my magnetization process before but I think I got rid of it due to shaky-camera syndrome. I'll see if I can find it.

[coredump]

Yeah, one thing to remember, is you don't always need to use 2 magnets. Often you can use just one magnet and some iron/steel for the other side. (Nail heads, small washers, etc.)

[Remalis]

Apologies if this breaches etiquette. Don't feel my question warrants a new thread. This one seems to fit:
On magnets I've a fair idea of what sizes to use - around 3mm x 2mm (1/8") & 6mm x 2mm (1/4"). However searching the threads I can't seem to find what pull strength works best to keep stuff in place? I'm aiming to magnetize my fmc's mostly for transport but while I'm at it, weapon options.
I've ordered 3mm rated at N48 - about 280g pull strength
And 6mm rated at I think around N46 which on that size is about 500g pull strength. For flyrant and crone/harpy wings in particular will these likely hold?

[biomega]

I heard M52s are recommended for the larger models as they are the strongest (fact check?), so if you're considering wings I might go with those. I at least saw that on an Exospex mag vid on youtube. I imagine those would work for the FMCs as well.

Only thing you want to consider there is having an equally strong super glue or green stuff holding those magnets in, because they can and have come unglued in my models.

Stingray, definitely a good idea to start out with magnetizing the Fex. Although I think by comparison the Tervannofex and Exospex kits should be much simpler due to fewer interchangeable limbs. Good luck!

[Remalis]

Thanks so much for the advice and quick response. Greatly appreciated!

[bolk]

www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide#Tyranids