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Author | Topic: Driving Me nuts... (Read 901 times) |
hivefleetcurinus Tyrant Guard
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #15 on Jan 4, 2011, 7:00pm » | |
i just pin it
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herkine Gaunt
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #16 on Jan 5, 2011, 12:34am » | |
I find mixing plastic glue and super glue works well enough to provide a good stick for the model. That's how I've usually gotten around the issue of having to hold parts in place for so long.
Small clamps also work well if you can get them to hold the model together the way you want them to.
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deusmorte Genestealer
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #17 on Jan 5, 2011, 2:19am » | |
I use locktite gel glue for things like that, i had no problems w/ my hive guard or tyrant guard using it.
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gigasnail Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #18 on Jan 5, 2011, 4:30am » | |
the hive guard was balls to build. drill it out and pin it, use GS and epoxy.
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fenrir Guest
|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #19 on Jan 5, 2011, 6:32am » | |
Well my hive guard are done the baking soda Metal glue combo was perfect ty for the help guys :b
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Blood Genisis Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #20 on Jan 5, 2011, 7:31am » | |
Sorry about the blanks that was a proxy account until i could get the login info for my old acc
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theregistater Tyrant Guard
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #21 on Jan 5, 2011, 8:30am » | |
if you have problems with gluing metal models use less super glue, then after it dries for like an hour give it another drop or two to fill in the cracks
or put glue on both sides where they will contact but don't put them together let it dry then glue the super glue together.
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Zafoga Tyranid Warrior
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #22 on Jan 5, 2011, 12:05pm » | |
Jan 4, 2011, 1:38pm, yoritomo wrote: Jan 4, 2011, 6:46am, Zafoga wrote:| Soldering iron is your friend here! |
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No! Mr. Soldering Iron is not your friend. Mr. Soldering Iron melts your model, which doesn't guarantee that it will stick together or hold it's position.
Pinning it is the only sure way to get it to hold. A good glue will work as well, but you have to find a good glue first. |
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If your models are melting from a soldering iron you're doing something very very very wrong. The only thing that should be melting with a soldering iron is the solder you're using to bind the two parts together. Not to mention pewter's melting point is about 240°C, and Solder starts melting at 180°C. I've soldered my Dark Elf Executioners, Chariots, Hydra, Carnasaur, Tyrant Guard, Bel'Akor, etc. and not once experienced deformation of the model, maybe a burnt finger tip from having the model heat up, but never melted.
It's a valid suggestion, and probably the best if you want unbreakable bindings. Handling with care is sort of implied.
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Cybertooth Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #23 on Jan 5, 2011, 6:12pm » | |
I thought that was wrong aswell, i guess if the soldering iron is in contact with the pewter for ages then it might start to deform it, but you'd only do that if you have no idea how to solder.
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Jabberwocky Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #24 on Jan 5, 2011, 6:13pm » | |
I've found super glue alone is fine for most models as long as you clean both surfaces first, leave one damp, apply glue to other then press together.
Pinning was necessary for Zoanthropes and Tyrant arms though. I am a bit disappointed in the GW pin drill though, its not very sturdy nor does it grip the drill bit very tightly.
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Thlaylie Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #25 on Jan 5, 2011, 9:00pm » | |
I use a Dremel to rough up the surfaces to be joined as well as pinning if the parts are heavy or large enough to be bumped often.
Then citadel Superglue. (After all it is made for their models)
Greenstuff doesn't support things very well and is more of a gap filler/ surface contour product. If it must be used to support, cover it with superglue.
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maeloke Tyranid Warrior
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #26 on Jan 6, 2011, 4:28am » | |
I"ll throw in a second vote for the 5-minute industrial epoxy. It has volume to it, so it'll fill gaps fully, and it will typically hold up better than the metal bits it's keeping in place.
I've usually found superglue to be too brittle, and prone to breaking if dropped, where the epoxy will hold a figure together.
For super fragile joints, of course, there is no substitute for pinning.
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biomega Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #27 on Jan 6, 2011, 5:56pm » | |
Wow these are some serious gluing techniques... I'm starting to feel like my approach is kind of orkish...
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Mar 30, 2011, 3:11pm, razielsempai wrote:| I wanna make out sooo bad but I have no idea how haha |
| Feb 16, 2011, 11:07pm, noguchi22 wrote:ok but who strikes first the harpy with adrenal glands or howling banshees coz it describes them as both screeming or sreeching so who shouts the loudest |
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Devil's Advocate Hive Tyrant
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #28 on Jan 6, 2011, 6:44pm » | |
I've gotten to the point of pinning almost everything - getting a makita has helped immensely. it can grip the drill bit just fine and as long as I use a low speed, I never risk breaking the drill bit (only had to learn that lesson once).
I even have two different drill bits depending on the size of the thing I'm going to pin - small or large paper clips.
@herkine: I'm dubious of the bond you're making mixing plastic glue and superglue. maybe something in the plastic will accelerate the cynoacrylate... I don't know.
@Jabberwocky: Water is also an accelerant - but it also causes the glue to turn white at the same time - part of why the models ghost to white in humid environments.
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yoritomo Influence of the Hive Mind
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|  | Re: Driving Me nuts... « Reply #29 on Jan 6, 2011, 9:12pm » | |
Jan 5, 2011, 6:12pm, Cybertooth wrote:| I thought that was wrong aswell, i guess if the soldering iron is in contact with the pewter for ages then it might start to deform it, but you'd only do that if you have no idea how to solder. |
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And how much experience do you think Blood Genius has at soldering?
And while you are correct that a 60/40 solder melts at about 180C, a 40/60 solder melts at about 230C. What was the melting point of pewter again?
The bottom line is that it is very bad to advise someone to solder their models together. They probably aren't going to know how to use a soldering iron. They aren't going to know what kind of solder to get (and the guy at the hardware store may be much help in this case). They aren't going to know how to apply solder. And let's not forget that your soldering iron runs around 400C. If you make a mistake you can permanently damage (i.e. melt) your model.
These things seem simple to you, but to someone who's grabbing his dad's soldering iron for the first time it's going to be confusing as hell. Unless you plan on posing step by step instruction on how to solder a model together you are doing more harm then good.
It's something I can personally attest to. I watched a friend of mine go through half a necron wraith before he figured out that he was touching pewter instead of solder with his soldering iron.
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